About annewaller

I love everything to do with textiles, fabrics, threads, or beads. More recently I have also ventured further into paper crafting and mixed media too. I hope to share with you some of my work, including jewellery making, embroidery, fabric painting and dyeing, spinning and felting, weaving, knitting and crochet. I am privileged to be on several Design Teams; working with Chocolate Baroque (stamps), Beads Direct, Gina Barrett (Gina-B Silkworks) and also as guest blogger for Powertex; and previously worked with Tattered Lace (dies) and Brother ScanNCut too. I so love to create and never have enough hours in the day - tee hee.

Spooky Halloween Tassel

Good afternoon. I just had to share a Halloween make today. I hope that you like this creepy tassel that I made as a sample for Gina’s recent tassel making shows on Hochanda TV.

AW Halloween Tassel 3

Materials:

  • Polystyrene egg
  • Orange mesh ribbon (approx. 1 inch wide)
  • Commercial embellished cord – orange felt flowers, pearls, beads, sequins, pumpkin shaped metal bells attached to orange raffia cord (from my stash)
  • Double knit wool (gold/ochre)
  • Black ribbon and commercial black cord scraps
  • Black die cut sentiment ‘Boo’ (Tattered Lace Die)
  • Bats and spiders cut on my Silhouette Cameo machine from black card (Silhouette Store: ‘Spider Web Lantern’ from Jennifer Rush and ‘Bats Flying’)
  • Gold and black flower shaped sequins
  • Strong cotton thread for tying (I used warping cotton but a button thread would work too)
  • Clear drying fabric glue or PVA
  • Sewing needle & thread, extra-long sewing needle (e.g. Shashiko or doll needle)

AW Halloween Tassel 2

Recommended Tools and Tassel Tutorials:

Gina B Silkworks has a fab selection of tools and publications which will help you to make a range of tassel embellishments: from soft tassels suitable for clothing, to more complex tassels for soft furnishings. Here are a few items that I can recommend for tassel making.

AW Halloween Tassel 1

How it was done:

  1. I first covered the egg by wrapping with the mesh ribbon. It was easiest to wrap in a top to bottom direction (i.e. turning the egg on a vertical axis as wrapping around). Secured with a couple of stitches and fabric glue.
  2. I next made the long wool tassel skirt and tied with strong thread. I used the extra long needle to secure it onto the egg. I passed the needle up through the egg to anchor, and out of the top to make a hanging loop. The join was covered with black cord to neaten.
  3. The neck of the tassel was then bound with strong cotton. I secured lengths of the embellished raffia cord into the binding. This was then covered with a black ribbon wrap and tied bow.
  4. Next I glued on the spooky embellishments and sequins. I attached the bats and spiders onto the cords by gluing 2 cut shapes together sandwiching the cord between the card shapes.

Happy Halloween x.

Teneriffe Lace Shawl created with Vandyke Border Loom from Gina B Silkworks

Tonight I am sharing a shawl embellished with Teneriffe Lace and block printing that I made ready for Gina’s Lace show on Hochanda TV tomorrow at mid day (29th Oct 2019 on Freeview Channel 85 or watch catch up online via their website).

AW Lace Shawl 32

Gina has a button show at 4pm too where she will be bringing lots of her fabby historical button making kits, books and DVDs. Both shows are a must to see if you love textile embellishments, trims and passementerie.

Materials:

  • Lime green crochet cotton no.3 (Delfino – Filo Di Scozia)
  • Lilac DMC Mouline Cotton (like a standard 6 strand embroidery floss but on a large spool)
  • Sewing thread and needle (lime green)
  • Lime green cotton triangular shawl (made from quilting cotton) with sides measuring approx. 1m (I overlocked the edges using matching thread to prevent fraying)
  • Teneriffe Lace Starter Kit Loom 3 (Gina B Silkworks)
  • Teneriffe Lace Vandyke Border Loom set (Gina B Silkworks)
  • Fabric glue (optional)
  • Laundry starch spray (optional)
  • Thick dense foam mat (such as provided with Gina’s Total Trimmings Table) or upholstery foam (optional if wanting to use pins for stretching the web)
  • Decorative Indian wooden printing block and foam printing mat (Colouricious). The one I chose from my stash was approx. 9.5cm square with space in the centre to add the lace floral motifs
  • Setacolor Opaque (Spring Green, Raspberry and Parma Violet) and Deka Perm (Opaque White) fabric paints
  • Kitchen sponge and paint tray
  • Iron

How to do it:

Gina’s loom kits provide general instructions for stretching the web, darning, reverse backstitch and knotting etc.

Note: The hardest part to get right is the Teneriffe Lace Knot which holds it all together. Get this wrong and your lace won’t hold together properly when you remove it from the loom. Should this happen, don’t despair, do what I did with my first lace attempts and glue it to a card or a mixed media canvas. Ha ha.

There is a great beginners video from Gina to help with this.

I spent quite some time developing the lace pattern by quite a lot of experimenting, undoing and redoing until I was happy with the result. Don’t be afraid to play. Gina has also provided some easy starter lace borders in the instructions so you could try these first and make up a couple of smaller projects first.

The Border Lace:

Whenever thread ends were tied and finished, or working threads joined with knots, I added a small dab of clear drying fabric glue for extra security. This is optional but I thought it would ensure no loosening of thread ends, particularly during lots of wear and washing etc.

AW Lace Shawl 1

Starting: I stretched the web on the Vandyke Border Loom leaving a long end at the start and keeping the ball in place on the left hand side (to avoid making joins as the border is continued). Here I have wrapped the thread end a couple of times around the loom end to hold the tension in place.

I made an angle on the first end so that it would continue on the shape of the shawl corner. The pins were placed on a diagonal and threads held together by K 2e (knotting 2 threads to hold).

Note: When working some of the bigger projects I prefer to use pins to hold the web rather than lacing with waste thread. It is a little less portable in this method but much quicker to stretch the web.

AW Lace Shawl 2

Row 1: I worked a row of sc (scalloped edge by k 2e to create small anchored loops) along the bottom edge, joining in a new thread as required.

AW Lace Shawl 3

Row 2: Next I worked a row of K 2e (keeping the pairs of threads in alignment with the first bottom row of knots) along the centre of the lace band.

Note: For each row I joined a new length of yarn. Once worked this was loosely wrapped and tied (to prevent tangling) and kept on the left hand side, ready to work the next section of the lace as the lace is moved on along the loom.

Row 3: I then worked a row of sc along the top edge. See how the threads now separate to give a lacy effect. Again I joined a new thread for this row.

AW Lace Shawl 4

Row 4: A row of k 4e (4 threads knotted together such that the groups of knotted threads aligned with the peaks and troughs of the top edge) was worked in the centre of the bottom straight border section. This opened out the threads into a pretty lace design.

Row 5: A row of *k 2e (x3), k 4e (x1), K 2e (x3)* was repeated along the top border. The 2e knots were worked just below the knots on the sc edge and the 4e knots were worked about half way down the space. This created a nice section with 7 little spaces, ideal for darning (weaving) in the next row.

AW Lace Shawl 5

Row 6: Next I joined in the lilac thread. To start I knotted just under the threads of the previous row until reaching the centre of the 7 space section.

AW Lace Shawl 6

Row 6 continued: The 7 space section was progressively darned (pdt) for 8 rounds. The thread was taken under 1, over 2, under 2, over 1, under 1, then over 2 and under 1 to complete the first round (starting at the top left hand side single thread). As the rounds are worked the weave goes in the opposing over/under direction naturally (as there is an odd number of thread groups/spaces).

When 8 rounds were complete the thread was taken under the first thread bar again before moving along to the left with knotting.

Full row 6 repeat: *k 2e (x3), k 4e (x1), pdt (x8) in the round, u 1e, K 2e (x3)* repeated along the top border.

These 6 rows form the pattern repeat for the straight border sections. The straight knotting rows are quite quick to work but the darning does take a little longer. Well worth it though I think.

AW Lace Shawl 7

The lace was then removed from the loom ready to work the next section.

AW Lace Shawl 8

The first few loops were replaced onto the end of the loom and the next section of web was stretched ready to work. Here you can see the ball kept in place (keeping the web continuous without thread joins). The working threads were loosely tied for each row (keeping them separate, tying in a new length as required).

AW Lace Shawl 9

The next section of lace was then worked as given above.

AW Lace Shawl 10

Again the lace was moved along as each section was completed. I was so excited to see it grow.

AW Lace Shawl 11

I had calculated that I would need 25 little peaks to fit along the sides of my scarf before needing to turn the corner (the space between each peak being approx. 4cm and the sides of my scarf being approx. 1m).

Note: The lace does pull in slightly when removed from the loom (the amount will vary depending on stitches used). Bear this in mind and check that the length of your lace is OK before turning the corner (particularly on a large project).

AW Lace Shawl 12

As with the straight border I pinned the first few loops of lace onto the corner loom and laid out the pins ready to stretch the web.

AW Lace Shawl 13

I stretched the web on the first half of the corner then spent some time thinking – how was I to make a corner pattern that would continue the straight sections nicely? This took me some time – ha ha.

AW Lace Shawl 14

The threads on the corner diagonal of the web need to be interlocked. I therefore broke the thread and stretched the next section of the web, threading up the needle and passing through the loops of web on the diagonal (Gina explains this in her instructions). I then tied the thread end back to the ball end of thread.

I had a lot more thinking here about where to go next – tee hee.

AW Lace Shawl 15

I worked rows 1-4 as previously adding extra knots where the diagonal threads crossed to make sure that the intersection was well anchored.

I then started row 5 and had a lot more thinking on the corner section. The full peak sections on either side were to be completed in the same pattern but I wasn’t sure what to put in the corner. I liked how I had continued the bottom border section keeping the design cohesive.

AW Lace Shawl 16

Continuing row 5: After the first 3 knots (worked as per the normal pattern) I then moved to the centre and knotted up one side of the diagonal and back down the other (k 2e). This anchored all the threads well on the upper part of the diagonal. Note that I split the thread groups (see above where the outer threads are grouped together on the web) to make a lacy effect. I hope that this makes sense. It is difficult to explain – sorry.

Continuing row 6: I worked the first peak in the same way as usual then worked 3 knots up the outer edge (as in a normal row start). See picture below.

AW Lace Shawl 17

The corner was completed by weaving 2 little ‘leaf’ sections across the diagonal threads. Starting at the tip I wove down to the middle (filling the space), then up the other side and then 3 knots were worked down to the trough section as normal. The next section being worked as per the normal pattern.

The lace was then removed from the corner loom and replaced back onto the border loom ready to work up the other side (as shown above).

AW Lace Shawl 18

Here you can see the full length of one border and the corner turned ready to work the other side. I got very excited here – ha ha.

AW Lace Shawl 19

Here is a close up where you can see the corner more clearly.

Although fairly pleased I still wasn’t completely happy with it (more thinking! Ha ha).

AW Lace Shawl 20

I took the lace back off the border loom and quickly anchored it back onto the corner. With a new length of thread I added a little circle of weaving (over 5 groups of thread). I was happier with the result now.

AW Lace Shawl 22

I continued with the usual pattern until the last section. Here I again wanted a diagonal finish on the end.

AW Lace Shawl 21

Here I have shown the corner of the scarf so you can see what I mean. The loom is not designed to make diagonal ends as I am wanting so you can see one of the pins is slightly out of alignment here. This loop is adjusted when knotting (see below).

AW Lace Shawl 24

You can see here that the misaligned pin is removed as the last knot is worked on row 2 (the ball thread end then being tightened up). The other pins sit on the diagonal path OK.

AW Lace Shawl 23

Happy with my finished corner – finally – ha ha.

Block Printing:

AW Lace Shawl 25

Next I wanted to create a pretty block printed border.

I used the lime green paint on the outer part of the block (applying with kitchen sponge).

I mixed a little of the Raspberry and Violet with quite a lot of White to create a colour that matched well with my lilac thread. This mix was sponged onto the inner section of the block for printing.

The scarf was laid onto the foam base for printing. This provides a little cushioning against the solid wood block ensuring that the detail prints well.

AW Lace Shawl 27

Oooh yummy print.

AW Lace Shawl 26

Oooh – I was a happy bunny. I left the paint to fully dry overnight then heat fixed by ironing on the reverse on a cotton setting.

AW Lace Shawl 28

I then hand stitched on the lace border easing it to fit. In order to provide a little stretch and ease I used a slight zig zag when stitching (this allows a little stretch without popping of the thread). Next I sprayed with starch and ironed. This smoothed any slight lumps & waves that formed after attaching the lace and also stabilised the lace nicely.

AW Lace Shawl 29

I was so chuffed with how the lace border and printing looked.

The Floral Daisy Motifs:

 

AW Lace Shawl 30

Next I worked 16 small daisy motifs on loom 3.

I stretched the web on the smallest circle and lime thread to create 16 edge loops (i.e. total of 32 threads crossing the central section).

I then worked DD (double darning 2e) for 2 rows in the centre to neaten up the crossing threads etc. On the second row I offset the threads darned in the first row (as in weaving).

I then worked Revs (2) for 3 rows: Reverse backstitch over 2 threads. Ensuring that the threads from adjacent ‘loops’ were grouped together to form the outer ‘petal’ loops. Note: The side facing you is the back of the work.

Then I worked K 2e for 1 row: Knotting 2 threads together to secure groups of threads creating the long scalloped edge loops that make the petals.

AW Lace Shawl 31

These little flowers would make great earrings or could be joined to make a lovely necklace. In fact it was these that gave me the idea for my black lace earrings blogged in my previous post earlier today.

AW Lace Shawl 32

Finally I finished the shawl by sewing the little daisies into the centre of the block printed motifs.

AW Lace Shawl 33

I hope that you like my lace shawl. Teneriffe Lace is definitely a ‘slow craft’ akin to knitting or cross stitch, don’t expect quick results. This project took me around 25 hours to make! Take your time and enjoy the process xxxx.

Teneriffe Lace Earrings created for Gina B Silkworks

Today I am sharing some quick to make Teneriffe Lace earrings that I made ready for Gina’s Lace show on Hochanda TV tomorrow at mid day (29th Oct on Freeview Channel 85 or watch catch up online via their website.

 

AW Loom 3 ER

Materials:

· Black crochet cotton no.12

· Teneriffe Lace Starter Kit Loom 3 (Gina B Silkworks)

· Fabric glue (optional)

· Silver plated earring findings

· Rolls Fabrifix Spray (roller blind fabric stiffener and protector spray)

· Baking parchment

How to do it:

Note: Gina’s starter kit provides general instructions for stretching the web, darning the centre, reverse backstitch and knotting etc.

1. Web (16): stretch the web on the smallest circle to create 16 edge loops (i.e. total of 32 threads crossing the central section).

2. Centre DD for 2 rows: Double darn the centre to neaten up the crossing threads etc. On the second row offset the threads darned in the first row (as in weaving).

3. Revs (2) for 4 rows: Reverse backstitch over 2 threads. Ensure that the threads from adjacent ‘loops’ are grouped together to form the outer ‘petal’ loops. Note: The side facing you is the back of the work.

4. K 2e for 1 row: Knot 2 threads together to secure groups of threads creating the long scalloped edge loops that make the petals. Fasten off and add a small dab of fabric glue if desired to seal the fastening knot.

5. Remove from the loom and spray both sides with stiffening spray. I laid my lace onto a bit of baking parchment to do this (so not stick). Note: Use this spray in a well ventilated area as the solvent is quite smelly. I like to use this spray as it both stiffens and protects the piece from moisture. It also dries very quickly (within a couple of minutes). Alternatively you could use diluted clear drying PVA glue or Transparent Powertex fabric hardener, but these are more messy and take a while to dry. Gina also produces a lovely Kanzashi Starch that could be used neat or diluted on the lace (great choice for pieces used as linens etc.).

Note: The hardest part to get right is the Teneriffe Lace Knot which holds it all together. Get this wrong and your lace won’t hold together properly when you remove it from the loom. Should this happen, don’t despair, do what I did with my first lace attempts and glue it to a card or a mixed media canvas.

There is a great beginners video from Gina to help with this.

I hope that you like the lace earrings. They are fairly quick to make and are ideal if you are a beginner and feel a little daunted with making the larger medallions. Teneriffe Lace is definitely a ‘slow craft’ akin to knitting or cross stitch, don’t expect quick results. Take your time and enjoy the process xxxx.

Study Bursary Finalists with The School of Stitched Textiles

I am so excited to have been chosen as a finalist to receive a Bursary to study with the School of Stitched Textiles.

 

Finalists are now needing votes – winners will receive a Bursary which will cover the study fees. To be awarded a Bursary would mean so much to me as unfortunately I am not in the position to afford the course fees.

 

Please could you spend just a minute to place a vote for your favourite finalist (I am under my full name – Heather Anne Waller). There are some fabulous entries, all deserving of a Bursary Award. Voting is simple, no name or personal details etc. required. Click this link to vote for your favourite finalist.

 

Thank you so much xxx.

 

AW Hat

The projects that I entered were my felted, quilted and embroidered coral reef hat

 

AW Earth Laughs Quilt small

and my patchwork hanging embellished with hand made ribbon flowers.

Gina Barrett is back on Hochanda TV tomorrow with more buttons

Gina Barrett is back on Hochanda TV tomorrow at 10am (Freeview Channel 85 or watch live via their website www.hochanda.com) bringing more of her marvellous button kits, book and DVDs.

Here is a sneaky peek of my button display. I used Tonic Kaleidoscope Box dies to create the box and adapted the sides to drop down and display the buttons. I used a variety of Gina’s instructions for the buttons (Macclefield & Leek Button Journal Kit, Button Workshop Manual and Making Buttons DVDs). There are brilliant Hochanda Freedom member prices on the show!

AW Button Box 1

The mannequin die is from La Blanche.

AW Button Box 2

I used a variety of papers to decorate (Crafters Companion).

AW Button Box 3

I used plenty of glitter glue to enhance the flowers (got to have some sparkle – tee hee) and PVA pearls for texture.

AW Button Box 4

The sentiment die was quite appropriate (Tonic Kaleidoscope Box set).

AW Button Box 5

When the lid is removed 5 of the 8 sides drop down to display my selection of thread wrapped buttons. I used a honeycomb die (Tattered Lace) and various button dies (mixed source from my die stash). Lettering was cut using a font die set from Tim Holtz.

AW Button Box 6

The mini flower dies are from the Susan’s Garden Hydrangea set (Elizabeth Craft Designs).

AW Button Box 8

Death’s Head is the name of the historical wrapped button – name used here (England) and the USA in the 18th Century.

AW Button Box 7

Death’s Head buttons using a variety of threads.

AW Button Box 9

More Death’s Head buttons using a variety of threads and different shapes of button mould.

AW Button Box 10

The buttons on the right are my variants of Gina’s Union Jack Button (Button Workshop Manual). The far left shows an over wrapped fabric covered button (Open Square with Soutache Braid). The pink and blue buttons are my interpretation of a 17th Century button that I saw on Pinterest (Death’s Head base overwrapped with cord and bound with silky thread).

AW Button Box 12

 

AW Button Box 11

More of Gina’s yummy buttons (Peace and Maze).

 

AW Button Box 13

Various square wrap buttons (Silver, Decorative and Gimp Squares).

AW Button Box 14

Square wraps and Leek Square.

AW Button Box 15

Spiral and Wide Wraps.

I have had so much fun learning how to create all these but have barely scratched the surface of the huge variety that Gina covers in her books and DVD’s. It is also wonderful to contribute towards keeping knowledge of these techniques alive. Especially as many of these Passementerie techniques are now in danger of being lost completely.

Happy crafting,

Anne xxx.

Tassel Projects created for Gina B Silkworks

I am getting really excited. Gina is launching her next book in the Total Trimmings Series today – all about tassels. I literally squealed with delight when my copy arrived. I have had so much fun helping out with samples ready for the shows on Hochanda TV starting today (at 6 and 8pm), more shows tomorrow (9am, 1pm and 5pm).

Watch live on Freeview Channel 85 (UK) or online via their website at www.Hochanda.com

In addition to the book Gina will be launching a great bundle (One Day Special offer) including the Paperlathe system with a brand new Companion CD enabling you to make so many wonderful shapes for tassel tops, mixed media and bead making. Whether you like soft crafts, mixed media or jewellery making you will love it. The small tassel board is great for making mini tassels suitable for both trimmings and for jewellery.

Check Gina’s Facebook page for some examples of the Paperlathe shapes and wonderful tassels in the new book.

Here is a sneak peek at some of the tassel samples I made for the show. I had so much fun. Tassels for jewellery, home furnishing and I just had to do Halloween. Also some mixed media fun using recycled materials including a used tape runner, hanging ribbons cut from blouses and skirts, plus a bag created from recycled jeans and old textile trimmings with added tassels.

AW Tassel Projects

The Paperlathe system provides hundreds of different shapes and the new Companion CD provides even more possibilities with more tassel tops, fabulous stands (fab for mixed media – great shapes for box feet etc. too) and more bead shapes too for jewellery and embellishing.

I will share more details of the projects with you soon x.

Projects using Recycled Paper Beads created with the Paperlathe from Gina B Silkworks

I am getting really excited. Gina is launching her next book in the Total Trimmings Series today – all about tassels. I literally squealed with delight when my copy arrived. I have had so much fun helping out with samples ready for the shows on Hochanda TV starting today (at 6 and 8pm), more shows tomorrow (9am, 1pm and 5pm).

Watch live on Freeview Channel 85 (UK) or online via their website at www.Hochanda.com

In addition to the book Gina will be launching a great bundle (One Day Special offer) including the Paperlathe system with a brand new Companion CD enabling you to make so many wonderful shapes for tassel tops, mixed media and bead making. Whether you like soft crafts, mixed media or jewellery making you will love it. The small tassel board is great for making mini tassels suitable for both trimmings and for jewellery.

Check Gina’s Facebook page for some examples of the Paperlathe shapes and wonderful tassels in the new book.

Here is a sneak peek at just some of the samples I made with recycled wrapping paper beads.

AW Paperlathe Bead Projects

The Paperlathe system provides hundreds of different shapes and the new Companion CD provides even more possibilities with more tassel tops, fabulous stands (fab for mixed media – great shapes for box feet etc. too) and more bead shapes too for jewellery and embellishing.

The macrame projects were made with the help of Gina’s Total Trimmings Book 2 (Decorative Knotting).

Lots more to share with you soon x.