I love everything to do with textiles, fabrics, threads, or beads. More recently I have also ventured further into paper crafting and mixed media too. I hope to share with you some of my work, including jewellery making, embroidery, fabric painting and dyeing, spinning and felting, weaving, knitting and crochet. I am privileged to be on several Design Teams; working with Chocolate Baroque (stamps), Beads Direct, Gina Barrett (Gina-B Silkworks) and also as guest blogger for Powertex; and previously worked with Tattered Lace (dies) and Brother ScanNCut too. I so love to create and never have enough hours in the day - tee hee.
A peek at what I have been making with the new Teneriffe Lace Square and Vandyke border looms. Watch the show on Create & Craft TV tomorrow to see more looms and demos from Gina (Sat 4pm Freeview Channel 23).
I will blog more info on how I created these soon x.
Today I am sharing a pretty little adjustable Kanzashi flower ring created using fine printed cotton fabric which has been treated with Transparent Powertex to stiffen and protect it. Treating with Powertex adds strength and protects against dirt. Ideal for jewellery pieces.
There are lots of videos on YouTube showing Kanzashi flower making but most are using synthetic ribbons which are joined and sealed by melting. I used instructions from Gina-B Silkworks (this was a sample for her recent show on Create & Craft TV). Gina’s method is the traditional Japanese way using natural fabrics (silk or cotton). Being natural fibres these little flowers are simply ideal for treating with Powertex. Ready-made silk flowers could work very well too.
Really pretty and comfortable to wear (sorry that my hands are older crafters hands and not modelling quality – tee hee).
The ring is adjustable so easy fitting.
I coloured the back to match the wire colour. You can also see the adjustable ring form more easily in this pic – the backing and flower being secured to one of the flat wire coils.
Note: One thing to consider when using transparent Powertex is how it will affect the colour of the fabric. It will considerably darken many fabrics, giving them the appearance of their colour when wet. Always test out a spare scrap first so as not to be disappointed. The printed cotton that I used here changed very little in colour so I was really pleased with the result.
Small wooden flat backed dome (or use a small disc of thick card/MDF)
Starlight acrylic paint (or varnish to match with wire)
I used additional tools for making the flowers which are really helpful and make the process easier. They are not essential but you will probably want to get them if you decide that you like this craft.
Pack of straight and bent fine tweezers – great for manipulating fiddly items such as the small fabric squares while folding, and for placing the petals. I would say that tweezers of some sort are pretty essential unless you have really nimble fingers.
Petal Holders & Medium Drying Table – another useful kit if wanting to make several flowers. Cotains 2 sets of petal holders (for small and larger petals) plus a bigger drying table (for more flowers).
How it was made:
My Kanzashi flower makes using the starter kit. I used the 7 petal rainbow one for the ring.
I used the in Gina’s starter kit to make the seven petal rainbow flower. Basically little fabric squares are folded to make petals. The raw edges of the petals are then placed in thick Kanzashi starch to hold their shape while making up all the petals and building the flower. The petals are then glued to a base piece of cotton using PVA glue and left to dry overnight. Excess fabric on the base is then snipped away. I glued a small metal brad into the centre with Gemtac glue. Sorry that I am unable to give full instructions here for the flower as the specifics of this flower design belong to Gina.
To make the adjustable ring I wrapped the wire around a ring mandrel and tapped the wire lightly with the hammer to work harden the ring structure. A nylon hammer helps protect against stripping off the coloured coating.
I trimmed the wire and made a small curl on one side using the round nosed pliers. On the other side I made a larger curl, big enough to sit the flower onto the front and the wooden cabochon onto the back. I worked hardened and slightly flattened the wire curls using the hammer and steel block.
I added a coat of clear Powertex to the back/base of the flower and wooden cabochon and left until touch dry. I then added another coat of Powertex (as a glue) and used Powertex Easy Structure to fill the voids in the wire curl, attaching the wooden cabochon to the back and flower to the front of the larger wire curl, and left it to cure overnight. The Easy Structure paste makes a nice solid bridge holding everything securely onto the back and front of the wire curl. A little Stone Art Clay would also work. Note: If you don’t have a suitable wooden cabochon a thick card/board or MDF shape could be substituted. I would advise an absorbent natural material for a strong bond with the Powertex. It also needs to be smooth so as not to scratch or irritate the skin when wearing.
I then painted the cabochon and flower with Transparent Powertex, working it well into the fabric flower and crevices with a brush. Tip: If you find that you have big blobs or pools of Powertex use a piece of cotton rag to lightly dab and mop up the excess, or it can dry giving shiny blobby areas which will spoil the natural look and texture of the fabric flower. Leave to dry.
Finally I painted the back of my cabochon attachment and flower base using Starlight acrylic paint. The colour match was simply perfect for the metallic pink wire that I used. If you are using copper, silver or gold plated wires you could paint with Colortricx pigment and Easy Varnish instead (to coordinate with your wire).
Powertex treatment has made this delicate fabric flower ring much more robust and protected against dirt – a more functional piece of jewellery. For further protection and full waterproofing you could add a final coat of Easy Varnish.
Good morning. This is a quick and easy Christmas card make – great when you have big batches of cards to get ready. I think that the sentiment might be better stamped directly onto the card front – quicker too.
Stamp the trees with Versafine and extend the base of the scene by drawing with the pen. Edge the card with black marker and a little Distress Ink. Glue to the card front.
Stamp the sentiment with Versamark and emboss with the sparkly gold powder. Note: I combined 2 sentiments using the separate ‘and’ stamp to join them. Tip: Use a gridded acrylic block to help align the text level and straight.
Trim and edge with black marker. Glue to the card front.
All were stamped with Versafine (Onyx Black) and heat embossed with WOW Embossing Powder (Clear Gloss). This makes colouring really quick and easy as the embossed lines resist the watercolour. I used watercolour pens, Distress Inks, gouache paints and sparkle pens to colour. Gouache paints are semi opaque watercolours which are great where some coverage of the underlying patterned paper is needed.
Good morning. Just catching up with blogging a few more of my recent show samples created for Chocolate Baroque on Hochanda. This one was created with the Harlequin Bouquet stamp.
I experimented a bit with the Soft Form Relief Paste on this one. I tried inking the stamp before coating with the paste (using Archival Ink) with the hope to transfer the ink into the paste embellishment. I wasn’t sure if the ink would just diffuse and bleed into the paste making a smudgy mess. I was really pleased with the result – the inked image stayed clean and sharp and transferred perfectly.
Ink the stamp with Archival Ink and spread the relief paste over the top with a palette knife. Leave to fully dry before peeling away. This will not spoil the stamp in any way and the dried paste stays flexible and is easily removed. Drying times can vary and I find that it usually takes 2 days for me (I don’t have heating). So you need to plan ahead a bit when using this but the results are worth it.
Emboss the card blank with the harlequin folder and rub over with a little gilding wax.
Stamp the sentiment with Versamark onto a separate piece of card and heat emboss with the gold powder. Note: I would advise dusting the card with antistatic powder before embossing. I usually do this but forgot in this case so got some stray embossing powder over the background. However, I thought it looked ok and made it a bit more vintage looking in this case.
Trim the sentiment panel and glue to the card front along with the paste embellishment. Add Glossy Accents over the flowers and leaves to make them stand out.