Teneriffe Lace Shawl created with Vandyke Border Loom from Gina B Silkworks

Tonight I am sharing a shawl embellished with Teneriffe Lace and block printing that I made using the Vandyke Border Loom from Gina B Silkworks. I made this a couple of years ago for one of Gina’s TV shows demonstrating the technique. Gina has another lace show on Create and Craft TV tomorrow at 1pm (26th April on Freeview Channel 85 or watch catch up online via their website) featuring many looms for creating round, various mandala style shapes and the border looms.

I hope that you enjoy seeing this project. I really enjoyed making this.

Materials:

• Lime green crochet cotton no.3 (Delfino – Filo Di Scozia)
• Lilac DMC Mouline Cotton (like a standard 6 strand embroidery floss but on a large spool)
• Sewing thread and needle (lime green)
• Lime green cotton triangular shawl (made from quilting cotton) with sides measuring approx. 1m (I overlocked the edges using matching thread to prevent fraying)
• Teneriffe Lace Starter Kit Loom 3 (Gina B Silkworks)
• Teneriffe Lace Vandyke Border Loom set (Gina B Silkworks)
• Fabric glue (optional)
• Laundry starch spray (optional)
• Thick dense foam mat (such as provided with Gina’s Total Trimmings Table) or upholstery foam (optional if wanting to use pins for stretching the web)
• Decorative Indian wooden printing block and foam printing mat (Colouricious). The one I chose from my stash was approx. 9.5cm square with space in the centre to add the lace floral motifs
• Setacolor Opaque (Spring Green, Raspberry and Parma Violet) and Deka Perm (Opaque White) fabric paints
• Kitchen sponge and paint tray
• Iron

How to do it:

Gina’s loom kits provide general instructions for stretching the web, darning, reverse backstitch and knotting etc.

Note: The hardest part to get right is the Teneriffe Lace Knot which holds it all together. Get this wrong and your lace won’t hold together properly when you remove it from the loom. Should this happen, don’t despair, do what I did with my first lace attempts and glue it to a card or a mixed media canvas. Ha ha.

There is a great beginners video from Gina to help with this.

I spent quite some time developing the lace pattern by quite a lot of experimenting, undoing and redoing until I was happy with the result. Don’t be afraid to play. Gina has also provided some easy starter lace borders in the instructions so you could try these first and make up a couple of smaller projects first.

The Border Lace:

Whenever thread ends were tied and finished, or working threads joined with knots, I added a small dab of clear drying fabric glue for extra security. This is optional but I thought it would ensure no loosening of thread ends, particularly during lots of wear and washing etc.

Starting: I stretched the web on the Vandyke Border Loom leaving a long end at the start and keeping the ball in place on the left hand side (to avoid making joins as the border is continued). Here I have wrapped the thread end a couple of times around the loom end to hold the tension in place.

I made an angle on the first end so that it would continue on the shape of the shawl corner. The pins were placed on a diagonal and threads held together by K 2e (knotting 2 threads to hold).

Note: When working some of the bigger projects I prefer to use pins to hold the web rather than lacing with waste thread. It is a little less portable in this method but much quicker to stretch the web.

Row 1: I worked a row of sc (scalloped edge by k 2e to create small anchored loops) along the bottom edge, joining in a new thread as required.

Row 2: Next I worked a row of K 2e (keeping the pairs of threads in alignment with the first bottom row of knots) along the centre of the lace band.

Note: For each row I joined a new length of yarn. Once worked this was loosely wrapped and tied (to prevent tangling) and kept on the left hand side, ready to work the next section of the lace as the lace is moved on along the loom.

Row 3: I then worked a row of sc along the top edge. See how the threads now separate to give a lacy effect. Again I joined a new thread for this row.

Row 4: A row of k 4e (4 threads knotted together such that the groups of knotted threads aligned with the peaks and troughs of the top edge) was worked in the centre of the bottom straight border section. This opened out the threads into a pretty lace design.

Row 5: A row of *k 2e (x3), k 4e (x1), K 2e (x3)* was repeated along the top border. The 2e knots were worked just below the knots on the sc edge and the 4e knots were worked about half way down the space. This created a nice section with 7 little spaces, ideal for darning (weaving) in the next row.

Row 6: Next I joined in the lilac thread. To start I knotted just under the threads of the previous row until reaching the centre of the 7 space section.

Row 6 continued: The 7 space section was progressively darned (pdt) for 8 rounds. The thread was taken under 1, over 2, under 2, over 1, under 1, then over 2 and under 1 to complete the first round (starting at the top left hand side single thread). As the rounds are worked the weave goes in the opposing over/under direction naturally (as there is an odd number of thread groups/spaces).

When 8 rounds were complete the thread was taken under the first thread bar again before moving along to the left with knotting.

Full row 6 repeat: *k 2e (x3), k 4e (x1), pdt (x8) in the round, u 1e, K 2e (x3)* repeated along the top border.

These 6 rows form the pattern repeat for the straight border sections. The straight knotting rows are quite quick to work but the darning does take a little longer. Well worth it though I think.

The lace was then removed from the loom ready to work the next section.

The first few loops were replaced onto the end of the loom and the next section of web was stretched ready to work. Here you can see the ball kept in place (keeping the web continuous without thread joins). The working threads were loosely tied for each row (keeping them separate, tying in a new length as required).

The next section of lace was then worked as given above.

Again the lace was moved along as each section was completed. I was so excited to see it grow.

I had calculated that I would need 25 little peaks to fit along the sides of my scarf before needing to turn the corner (the space between each peak being approx. 4cm and the sides of my scarf being approx. 1m).

Note: The lace does pull in slightly when removed from the loom (the amount will vary depending on stitches used). Bear this in mind and check that the length of your lace is OK before turning the corner (particularly on a large project).

As with the straight border I pinned the first few loops of lace onto the corner loom and laid out the pins ready to stretch the web.

I stretched the web on the first half of the corner then spent some time thinking – how was I to make a corner pattern that would continue the straight sections nicely? This took me some time – ha ha.

The threads on the corner diagonal of the web need to be interlocked. I therefore broke the thread and stretched the next section of the web, threading up the needle and passing through the loops of web on the diagonal (Gina explains this in her instructions). I then tied the thread end back to the ball end of thread.

I had a lot more thinking here about where to go next – tee hee.

I worked rows 1-4 as previously adding extra knots where the diagonal threads crossed to make sure that the intersection was well anchored.

I then started row 5 and had a lot more thinking on the corner section. The full peak sections on either side were to be completed in the same pattern but I wasn’t sure what to put in the corner. I liked how I had continued the bottom border section keeping the design cohesive.

Continuing row 5: After the first 3 knots (worked as per the normal pattern) I then moved to the centre and knotted up one side of the diagonal and back down the other (k 2e). This anchored all the threads well on the upper part of the diagonal. Note that I split the thread groups (see above where the outer threads are grouped together on the web) to make a lacy effect. I hope that this makes sense. It is difficult to explain – sorry.

Continuing row 6: I worked the first peak in the same way as usual then worked 3 knots up the outer edge (as in a normal row start). See picture below.

The corner was completed by weaving 2 little ‘leaf’ sections across the diagonal threads. Starting at the tip I wove down to the middle (filling the space), then up the other side and then 3 knots were worked down to the trough section as normal. The next section being worked as per the normal pattern.

The lace was then removed from the corner loom and replaced back onto the border loom ready to work up the other side (as shown above).

Here you can see the full length of one border and the corner turned ready to work the other side. I got very excited here – ha ha.

Here is a close up where you can see the corner more clearly.

Although fairly pleased I still wasn’t completely happy with it (more thinking! Ha ha).

I took the lace back off the border loom and quickly anchored it back onto the corner. With a new length of thread I added a little circle of weaving (over 5 groups of thread). I was happier with the result now.

I continued with the usual pattern until the last section. Here I again wanted a diagonal finish on the end.

Here I have shown the corner of the scarf so you can see what I mean. The loom is not designed to make diagonal ends as I am wanting so you can see one of the pins is slightly out of alignment here. This loop is adjusted when knotting (see below).

You can see here that the misaligned pin is removed as the last knot is worked on row 2 (the ball thread end then being tightened up). The other pins sit on the diagonal path OK.

Happy with my finished corner – finally – ha ha.

Block Printing:

Next I wanted to create a pretty block printed border.

I used the lime green paint on the outer part of the block (applying with kitchen sponge).

I mixed a little of the Raspberry and Violet with quite a lot of White to create a colour that matched well with my lilac thread. This mix was sponged onto the inner section of the block for printing.

The scarf was laid onto the foam base for printing. This provides a little cushioning against the solid wood block ensuring that the detail prints well.

Oooh yummy print.

Oooh – I was a happy bunny. I left the paint to fully dry overnight then heat fixed by ironing on the reverse on a cotton setting.

I then hand stitched on the lace border easing it to fit. In order to provide a little stretch and ease I used a slight zig zag when stitching (this allows a little stretch without popping of the thread). Next I sprayed with starch and ironed. This smoothed any slight lumps & waves that formed after attaching the lace and also stabilised the lace nicely.

I was so chuffed with how the lace border and printing looked.

The Floral Daisy Motifs:

Next I worked 16 small daisy motifs on loom 3.

I stretched the web on the smallest circle and lime thread to create 16 edge loops (i.e. total of 32 threads crossing the central section).

I then worked DD (double darning 2e) for 2 rows in the centre to neaten up the crossing threads etc. On the second row I offset the threads darned in the first row (as in weaving).

I then worked Revs (2) for 3 rows: Reverse backstitch over 2 threads. Ensuring that the threads from adjacent ‘loops’ were grouped together to form the outer ‘petal’ loops. Note: The side facing you is the back of the work.

Then I worked K 2e for 1 row: Knotting 2 threads together to secure groups of threads creating the long scalloped edge loops that make the petals.

These little flowers would make great earrings or could be joined to make a lovely necklace. In fact it was these that gave me the idea for my black lace earrings blogged in my previous post earlier today.

Finally I finished the shawl by sewing the little daisies into the centre of the block printed motifs.

I hope that you like my lace shawl. Teneriffe Lace is definitely a ‘slow craft’ akin to knitting or cross stitch, don’t expect quick results. This project took me around 25 hours to make! Take your time and enjoy the process xxxx.

Study Bursary Finalists with The School of Stitched Textiles

I am so excited to have been chosen as a finalist to receive a Bursary to study with the School of Stitched Textiles.

 

Finalists are now needing votes – winners will receive a Bursary which will cover the study fees. To be awarded a Bursary would mean so much to me as unfortunately I am not in the position to afford the course fees.

 

Please could you spend just a minute to place a vote for your favourite finalist (I am under my full name – Heather Anne Waller). There are some fabulous entries, all deserving of a Bursary Award. Voting is simple, no name or personal details etc. required. Click this link to vote for your favourite finalist.

 

Thank you so much xxx.

 

The projects that I entered were my felted, quilted and embroidered coral reef hat

 

and my patchwork hanging embellished with hand made ribbon flowers.

Ganutell Flowers on Hochanda TV today from Gina B Silkworks

Two great shows on Hochanda TV today from Gina Barrett (Freeview Channel 85 or watch catch up online from their website www.hochanda.com).

 

The first show was at mid day today (Sunday 31st March) with the Ganutell flowers (to watch catch up you can select the TV Schedule and pick the show to watch from there). At 4pm there will be a Teneriffe Lace show.

 

I used the Pretty Posy (pink version) Kit to make two variations of this necklace (using extra thread and wire from my stash). One I hung on a vintage brass chain, the other I created a wirework collar with vintage brass effect coated copper wire and beads. I will blog more details of how I created them soon.

I also had a lot of fun making flowers from the Ganutell Country Flowers Book.

I made a lovely poppy brooch for remembrance.

I had a lot of fun creating a fairy door with lovely floral garden. I used various Powertex media and recycled packaging to create this and will blog more details later for you.

Finally I made a floral Dream Catcher wreath.

Heart Shaped Wedding Pillow decorated with Ribbon Ruched Flowers

Good morning. Gina Barrett (Gina-B Silkworks) had some great shows on Hochanda TV on Sunday (17^th March 2019). The first show was with the FAB ribbon flower ruching tools. If you missed it they do keep the video up online (https://www.hochanda.com/) for a couple of weeks (go to TV schedule, select Sun 17^th Mar – click watch button next to show listing).

These are fantastic tools for quickly marking out ribbon with a variety of ruching patterns. Simply stitch along the marked lines and gather to create gorgeous ruched trims and flowers. Gina has also put up a Flower Comb instructional video on her YouTube Channel so you can see how the Flower Combs work.

The combs can also be used to mark out stitching guide lines for quilting, pleating and smocking designs too.

I have had so much fun creating samples for the show and have lots to share over the next few days.

 

Heart Shaped Wedding Pillow decorated with Ribbon Ruched Flowers

I used instructions from Gina’s Ribbonwork Flowers Book plus the Leaf and Bud Comb set, along with the Rococo Flower Comb set, to create the satin ribbon flowers, buds and leaves used to embellish the pillow.

I made this heart shaped pillow using recycled curtain lining and a pale pink gold foiled organza gift bag that I couldn’t bear to throw away. I love to recycle. Even the stuffing was taken from an old bed pillow that had lost its shape. Everything was well laundered and no-one would ever know that this was made mainly from scraps and junk.

First I made a heart template from scrap computer paper taped together to make a sheet approx 12 X 12 inches square. I folded the paper in half and drew a half heart, then opened out. This ensures that the heart is equal on both sides. The heart template measured approx 11.5 inches at it’s widest X 9.5 inches deep.

I used the template to cut X 2 each of cream cotton curtain lining and organza plus recycled curtain interlining to provide extra stability and padding (cotton interlining is like a thin wadding/batting). I stitched around the heart using a 1/2 inch seam attaching a ribbon hanger to the top and leaving an opening in the side for turning through. I left a wide enough gap to pass my fingers through and make stitching on embellishments easier. The seam edges of the opening were folded in and tacked (basted) to hold the layers together and help stop them fraying while working on the next stages.

Next I created a couple of ribbon hangers to hold the wedding rings (brass curtain rings in the pic). I used thin gold satin ribbon and attached using small snap fasteners, so that the rings could be easily attached and removed.

I used some little pink pads cut from felt to reinforce the fastener attachments. I traced the circle shapes from the Leaves and Buds Comb sets directly onto the felt using a soft pencil, then cut out. Circles are always tricky to cut neatly just by eye. These will be hidden under the floral embellishments so stitching did not have to be perfect. Functionality was more important.

I created an array of overlap and doucet leaves following instructions from the book and Comb 36 (Leaves and Buds set). The green leaves were made from ribbon and the gold leaves from scrap pieces of gold foiled organza (from the recycled gift bag).

Flowers were made using gold and cream satin ribbons, wrapping the gathered strips around flower stamens and stitching into a cone shape (Combs 1 and 3 – Rococo Set).

Leaf shapes were also created with pink organza ribbon to create buds. These were stitched in place building out from the pillow centre and disguising the snap fasteners.

Extra ribbons were also stitched in place to create little swags.

I continued building from the centre outward.

 

I created a hand made tassel to finish off the design. The tassel head was created with rolled paper strips using templates printed from Gina’s Paper Lathe CD. A brilliant pattern resource for making hundreds of different shaped tassel moulds and for rolled paper beads too.

I painted the tassel head with gold acrylic. The tassel was made with short strands of cream Cotton Broder left over from another project (most would of thrown these away but I can never waste anything –tee hee). I loved the effect of the varied lengths. Knotting the thread ends added extra interest. I created the loop hanger using macramé.

The cushion was then stuffed and the opening closed (stitching up by hand).

I hope that you like my wedding pillow made mostly from rubbish.

Off to write up blogs for my other samples.

Back soon, Anne xxx.

Floral Bangle created with Ribbon Ruching Flower Combs

Good morning. Gina Barrett (Gina-B Silkworks) had some great shows on Hochanda TV on Sunday (17^th March 2019). The first show was with the FAB ribbon flower ruching tools. If you missed it they do keep the video up online (https://www.hochanda.com/) for a couple of weeks (go to TV schedule, select Sun 17^th Mar – click watch button next to show listing).

These are fantastic tools for quickly marking out ribbon with a variety of ruching patterns. Simply stitch along the marked lines and gather to create gorgeous ruched trims and flowers. Gina has also put up a Flower Comb instructional video on her YouTube Channel so you can see how the Flower Combs work.

The combs can also be used to mark out stitching guide lines for quilting, pleating and smocking designs too.

I have had so much fun creating samples for the show and have lots to share over the next few days.

Woven Floral Bangle with Ribbon Ruched Flower

To create the woven bangle I used the Beadalon Bangle Weaver Tool (Beads Direct), recycled sari silk strips, monofilament and a few beads.

I have already blogged full instructions on using the bangle weaver tool.

I used the Rococo Flower Comb set (Gina B Silkworks) to create the satin ribbon flower embellishment; ribbons varying in width from 15mm to 3.5cm. The flower centre was finished with microbeads and a pearl cabochon, glued in place with Fevicryl (glue designed to stick beads and gems to fabric).

Off to write up blogs for my other samples. Back soon xxx.

Ribbon Ruching Flower Combs from Gina B Silkworks

Ribbon Ruching Flower Combs from Gina B Silkworks will be on Hochanda TV tomorrow (8am – Freeview Channel 85 or watch online via their website hochanda.com).

 

Here is a little sneaky peek of my show samples.

The ribbon ruching combs enable you to mark out a variety of gathering stitch designs onto fabric strips and ribbon to make lovely textured trims and flowers. They can also be used to mark out quilting or ruched smocking designs too.

 

I will blog more details of my samples over the next couple of weeks.

Bye for now, Anne xxx.

Ganutell Poppy for Remembrance Day

Good afternoon. I have been learning the technique of Ganutell flower making. This year I made a donation to the Poppy Appeal but made my own Remembrance Poppy.

I adapted instructions from the Ganutell Country Flowers Handbook from Gina B Silkworks. I used red stranded Rayon Floss to wrap the petal wires and DMC Satin to wrap the Cartouchage (card wrapped) leaf. The centre was created with yellow stranded cotton and black seed beads.

I also used 0.25mm and 0.4mm copper wire, 1.9mm Perl wire (Vintage Brass) wires. The 1.9mm ready made Perl is a little more robust than hand wound (from 0.4mm wire) so I thought it more suitable for making into a brooch, helping to keep the shape of the large petals.

Florist tape (green) was used to wrap exposed stem wires. I added a pretty Posy Holder and Pin to make it into a brooch.

 

As a beginner I really struggled with using slinky Rayon Floss threads. The DMC Satin thread was a delight to use when compared to standard Rayon Floss – so if you are a beginner I would recommend this. I separated out the DMC Satin strands and used singly for the small Ganutell sepals (with fine Perl wire). I recombined several strands back together to cover the Cartouchage large leaf.

Shapes for the leaf and flower centre can be hand cut from the templates in the book or you can use ready cut card shapes from the Cartisane Flower Cards Kit).

 

I discovered a fantastic trick to help create a smooth Rayon Floss for the petals. I had initially just been separating the strands and spritzing with water to help smooth out the kinks and help the thread to lay flatter. This worked quite well but it still never looked totally smooth and neat. I applied my science brain to the problem and developed this trick to achieve super smooth thread. It may be that experienced embroiderer’s already know this technique but I haven’t seen it anywhere. 

I found that if I separated the strands, each strand is composed to 2 ply. I then separated into a single ply. If this is gently stretched the thread ‘memory’ and kinks can be removed leaving a smooth singly ply thread which lays lovely and flat and behaves more like a filamentous silk. Now that I have found this trick I can see so many uses for this thread. I had long given up on it for embroidery of cross stitch etc. as it just would not lay flat and always looked messy in my stitch work.

 

In this close up you can see how smooth the thread lays after treatment.

 

Here is an example of petals made with Rayon Floss. The white petal was created by wrapping with a single floss strand. You can see that it looks ‘bouncy’ and does not lay flat, also the twist in the ply is obvious as the light catches the shiny strands. The yellow petal was created using 1 stretched ply each of yellow and white Rayon. The results are so much smoother and neater.

Many years ago I purchased a stash of Rayon Floss to use in embroidery, hoping to be able to use it as a more affordable alternative to silk for silk shading and for Cross Stitch etc. I was so disappointed when it just simply looked a mess. They were consequently stuffed into my stash and rarely used except for occasionally in braid making. I now view these threads with excitement again. I hope that this little trick will be useful to any of you that have been disappointed when using this type of thread.

The Poppy looks lovely displayed alongside one of the pretty butterflies. These were created from the Ganutell Butterflies Kit (Blues) – details blogged previously. The little vase in this picture was created using my own fabric plus the Vase Heritage Pincushion Kit – also from Gina B Silkworks. The kit contains precision cut cards and full instructions. I fussy cut my fabric to place the motifs around the vase.

Tools required:

Jewellery pliers or tweezers, wire cutters (scissors can be used instead but don’t use your best ones!), clear drying PVA glue and a ruler.

Optional extras:

These are not essential but really useful if you intend to make a few projects. A small piece of florist foam (for holding elements while glue dries), and the Petal and Leaf Jig (to help shape wires easily and consistently).

I am planning a large Ganutell floral display – so more Ganutell to share with you all soon xxx.

Pheasant’s Eye Ganutell Flower

Good evening. I have been learning the technique of Ganutell. Here is another one – I created this Pheasant’s Eye using instructions from the Ganutell Country Flowers Handbook from Gina B Silkworks.

I used a stranded cotton thread (green) to create the chenille for the leaves. To make the flower petals I used Coton A Broder 25 (red), with stranded cotton (black) plus Rayon (red) to create the centre.

The little vase in this picture was created using my own fabric plus the Vase Heritage Pincushion Kit – also from Gina B Silkworks. The kit contains precision cut cards and full instructions. I fussy cut my fabric to place the motifs around the vase.

Other Materials:

0.25mm and 0.4mm copper wire, 1.9mm Perl Wire (silver plated)

Florist tape (green)

Tools required:

Jewellery pliers or tweezers, wire cutters (scissors can be used instead but don’t use your best ones!), clear drying PVA glue and a ruler.

Optional extras:

These are not essential but really useful if you intend to make a few projects. A small piece of florist foam (for holding elements while glue dries), Petal and Leaf Jig to help shape wires easily and consistently).

More Ganutell to share with you all soon xxx.

Wire and Thread Wrapped Ganutell Crocus

Good afternoon. I have been learning the technique of Ganutell. Here I used instructions from the Ganutell Country Flowers Handbook from Gina B Silkworks.

I used green stranded cotton to wrap the leaves and to create the stamens. As a beginner I still really struggle with slinky rayon or silk threads so opted for DMC Coton A Broder 25 thread for the petals – far easier to work with. I added colour to the petals using silk paint. Dampening the petals first encouraged nice blending of the colours.

Sorry about the stray cat hair that got into the crocus pic. Willow’s hair does get everywhere!

 

She is such a darling and loves to help out.

 

They look lovely alongside one of the pretty butterflies. These were created from the Ganutell Butterflies Kit (Blues) – details blogged previously.

 

The little vase in this picture was created using my own fabric plus the Vase Heritage Pincushion Kit – also from Gina B Silkworks. The kit contains precision cut cards and full instructions. I fussy cut my fabric to place the motifs around the vase.

Materials:

DMC Cotton A Broder 25 (white), stranded cotton (green and variegated yellow)

0.25mm and 0.4mm copper wire, 1.9mm Perl wire (silver plated)

Florist tape (green)

Silk paints (purple, yellow and red)

Tools required:

Jewellery pliers or tweezers, wire cutters (scissors can be used instead but don’t use your best ones!), clear drying PVA glue and a ruler.

Optional extras:

These are not essential but really useful if you intend to make a few projects. A small piece of florist foam (for holding elements while glue dries), Petal and Leaf Jig and jig top no. 2 (to help shape wires easily and consistently).

 

I am planning a large Ganutell floral display – getting a nice little collection together now – so more Ganutell to share with you all soon xxx.

Floral Trinket Box created with Powertex

I have had a wire box frame in my stash for ages. Originally it had a woven straw covering that fell apart so I removed it with the intention of recovering it. It ended up as another ‘UFO’ (unfinished object) for years. I have finally dug it out and created this Powertex treated fabric box embellished with hand made fabric flowers. Now it’s a fabulous trinket box for storing some of my crafty treasures.

The bare wire frame is a strong construction – similar to the type of wire used to make coat hangers. It measures approx. 8 inches square across the top and 6 inches deep.

I used some recycled cotton bed sheets and treated them with Black Powertex to cover the box and lid. I lined the outer and inner panels to completely cover the wire frame. I gathered some cotton trims for the next stage; some crochet lace and a piece of gathered Broderie Anglaise.

I treated the crochet lace with Powertex and applied around the box base.

The gathered lace was applied around the lid. I also dug out some greyboard lazer cut foliage shapes to embellish the top. These were coated and stuck down with Powertex. When dry I started dry brushing over the surface using Easy Varnish and Silver Colotricx. Extra colour was applied to the foliage to make it stand out from the dry brushed background.

Here you can see the dry brushed lid next to the unpainted base. The dry brushing has emphasised the texture and added metallic highlights.

Next I made some fabric roses from 25mm and 15mm strips cut from recycled bedding. These were created using Ribbon Ruching Flower Combs from Gina B-Silkworks. Basically strips are marked out using the Flower Comb templates, a running stitch is sewn along the marked lines and the stitching is pulled up to gather and shape into a rose. I prepared my strips and treated with Powertex before pulling up the stitching. The Powertex holds and glues the gathering in place. I left the flowers to dry before adding to the box top.

To create the roses I followed instructions detailed in Gina’s new Ribbonwork Flowers Book: Twist Roses from 25mm cotton strips using comb 3a (Rococo Comb Set) and 1930’s Roses from 15mm strips using comb 13a (Venezia Comb Set).

I used one of my dies to cut a frame for the centre (Sizzix), applied to the top and finished in the same way as the greyboard foliage.

The flowers were dry brushed with Easy Varnish and Interference Lilac Pigment. Loving these new Pearl Pigment colours! Powertex was then used to glue down the roses to the centre. I added some ready made flower stamens around the group (purple), and some small ready made satin ribbon roses to the corners (Powertex treated and coloured).

Next I mixed some 3D Sand and Balls into Black Powertex and drizzled the mix around the flowers. A few untreated balls were also dropped into the wet Powertex. The untreated balls kept their original colour on the surface giving contrast with the black base. Once dry I coloured by brushing over the surface using Easy Varnish and Mojito Lime Pigment.

I also dry brushed a little of the Lilac pigment sparingly over the lace trims and used to colour some hand made air dry clay embellishments (created using a silicone mould from my stash) added to the box corners.

I used one of my large rubber stamps (lace design from Heartfelt Creations) to stamp some extra textural interest around the sides using Viola Metallic Acrylic Ink. Note: the fabric surface is already quite textured and not very flat so the stamping does not give a clear impression of the design but just adds a little more depth and interest to the surface.

I hope that you like my new treasure box.

Hugs, Anne xxx.