Woven Bangle created for Gina B Silkworks

Good afternoon. Gina Barrett is back on Create & Craft TV tomorrow bringing back her new Flower Comb Ribbon Ruching Tools. Show time: Friday 13^th April at 11am – Freeview Channel 23. You can also watch online live or on catch up via their website.

These are fantastic tools for quickly marking out ribbon with a variety of ruching patterns. Simply stitch along the marked lines and gather to create gorgeous ruched trims and flowers. Gina has also put up a Flower Comb instructional video on her YouTube Channel so you can see how the Flower Combs work.

The show is bringing a great deal on a Mega Bundle that contains everything. Gina’s new instruction book, all the new Flower Comb sets, ribbons, thread, fabric marker and Kanzashi starch. It’s on interest free Flexi Buy too which always helps to spread the cost of bigger craft stash ‘needs’. Individual comb sets are also available on the show or via Gina B Silkworks.

I have had so much fun creating samples for the show and have lots to share today with more posts coming later xxx.

Woven Floral Bangle

To create the woven bangle I used the Beadalon Bangle Weaver Tool (Beads Direct), recycled sari silk strips, monofilament and a few beads.

I have already blogged full instructions on using the bangle weaver tool.

I used the Rococo Flower Comb set (Gina B Silkworks) to create the satin ribbon flower embellishment; ribbons varying in width from 15mm to 3.5cm. The flower centre was finished with microbeads and a pearl cabochon, glued in place with Fevicryl (glue designed to stick beads and gems to fabric).

Off to write up blogs for my other samples. Back soon xxx.

Adjustable Kanzashi Flower Ring Powertex Jewellery

Today I am sharing a pretty little adjustable Kanzashi flower ring created using fine printed cotton fabric which has been treated with Transparent Powertex to stiffen and protect it. Treating with Powertex adds strength and protects against dirt. Ideal for jewellery pieces.

There are lots of videos on YouTube showing Kanzashi flower making but most are using synthetic ribbons which are joined and sealed by melting. I used instructions from Gina-B Silkworks (this was a sample for her recent show on Create & Craft TV). Gina’s method is the traditional Japanese way using natural fabrics (silk or cotton). Being natural fibres these little flowers are simply ideal for treating with Powertex. Ready-made silk flowers could work very well too.

 

Really pretty and comfortable to wear (sorry that my hands are older crafters hands and not modelling quality – tee hee).

 

The ring is adjustable so easy fitting.

 

I coloured the back to match the wire colour. You can also see the adjustable ring form more easily in this pic – the backing and flower being secured to one of the flat wire coils.

 

Note: One thing to consider when using transparent Powertex is how it will affect the colour of the fabric. It will considerably darken many fabrics, giving them the appearance of their colour when wet. Always test out a spare scrap first so as not to be disappointed. The printed cotton that I used here changed very little in colour so I was really pleased with the result.

 

Tools and Materials:

• Transparent Powertex
• Powertex Easy Structure
• Kanzashi Flower Making Starter Kit (includes instructions to make several different flowers, Hanabira printed fabrics and Kanzashi starch glue)
• 2.1mm aluminium wire (Artistic Wire – Anodized Rose)
• Ring mandrel
• Round nosed jewellery pliers and flush wire cutters
• Whammer Hammer (with nylon head attached) and steel block
• Dry Fast Craft Glue (or tacky PVA), Gemtac Glue (sticks glass, plastic or metal gems & beads to fabric)
• Small metal brad (for flower centre)
• Small wooden flat backed dome (or use a small disc of thick card/MDF)
• Starlight acrylic paint (or varnish to match with wire)

Optional extras:

I used additional tools for making the flowers which are really helpful and make the process easier. They are not essential but you will probably want to get them if you decide that you like this craft.

• Pack of straight and bent fine tweezers – great for manipulating fiddly items such as the small fabric squares while folding, and for placing the petals. I would say that tweezers of some sort are pretty essential unless you have really nimble fingers.
• Kanzashi Flower Making Tool Kit – contains a mini turntable, gluing table and spreader plus a small drying table. Great to have.
• Petal Holders & Medium Drying Table – another useful kit if wanting to make several flowers. Cotains 2 sets of petal holders (for small and larger petals) plus a bigger drying table (for more flowers).

How it was made:

My Kanzashi flower makes using the starter kit. I used the 7 petal rainbow one for the ring.

1. I used the in Gina’s starter kit to make the seven petal rainbow flower. Basically little fabric squares are folded to make petals. The raw edges of the petals are then placed in thick Kanzashi starch to hold their shape while making up all the petals and building the flower. The petals are then glued to a base piece of cotton using PVA glue and left to dry overnight. Excess fabric on the base is then snipped away. I glued a small metal brad into the centre with Gemtac glue. Sorry that I am unable to give full instructions here for the flower as the specifics of this flower design belong to Gina.
2. To make the adjustable ring I wrapped the wire around a ring mandrel and tapped the wire lightly with the hammer to work harden the ring structure. A nylon hammer helps protect against stripping off the coloured coating.
3. I trimmed the wire and made a small curl on one side using the round nosed pliers. On the other side I made a larger curl, big enough to sit the flower onto the front and the wooden cabochon onto the back. I worked hardened and slightly flattened the wire curls using the hammer and steel block.
4. I added a coat of clear Powertex to the back/base of the flower and wooden cabochon and left until touch dry. I then added another coat of Powertex (as a glue) and used Powertex Easy Structure to fill the voids in the wire curl, attaching the wooden cabochon to the back and flower to the front of the larger wire curl, and left it to cure overnight. The Easy Structure paste makes a nice solid bridge holding everything securely onto the back and front of the wire curl. A little Stone Art Clay would also work. Note: If you don’t have a suitable wooden cabochon a thick card/board or MDF shape could be substituted. I would advise an absorbent natural material for a strong bond with the Powertex. It also needs to be smooth so as not to scratch or irritate the skin when wearing.
5. I then painted the cabochon and flower with Transparent Powertex, working it well into the fabric flower and crevices with a brush. Tip: If you find that you have big blobs or pools of Powertex use a piece of cotton rag to lightly dab and mop up the excess, or it can dry giving shiny blobby areas which will spoil the natural look and texture of the fabric flower. Leave to dry.
6. Finally I painted the back of my cabochon attachment and flower base using Starlight acrylic paint. The colour match was simply perfect for the metallic pink wire that I used. If you are using copper, silver or gold plated wires you could paint with Colortricx pigment and Easy Varnish instead (to coordinate with your wire).

Powertex treatment has made this delicate fabric flower ring much more robust and protected against dirt – a more functional piece of jewellery. For further protection and full waterproofing you could add a final coat of Easy Varnish.

Some of my Soutache work featuring on Create & Craft TV tomorrow

I have some of my Soutache work featuring on the Beads Direct TV shows tomorrow .- Wooohooo, I am sooooo excited!

The next instalments of ‘Your Complete Guide to Jewellery Making’ are featuring on 3 shows tomorrow at 12, 4 and 8pm (Create & Craft TV Freeview Channel 23 – or watch online live – catch up videos remain online for a week at www.createandcraft.tv ).

Edition 15 features wonderful designs from Debbie Bulford. Edition 14 features Soutache – with some from me .

Bundle available with both CD ROMs and materials.

Visit Beads Direct to see a huge range of beads and jewellery making materials.

Autumn Splendour Necklace and Earring Set created for Beads Direct

 

I hope that you like my beaded necklace set inspired by the gorgeous colours of Autumn.

If you would like to make this I have loaded a tutorial on the Beads Direct Blog.

Happy Beading, Anne x.

Summer Love Seahorses Necklace created for Beads Direct

This is what I have been busy working on for the past few weeks. I hope that you like my Summer Love Seahorses. Full step by step and materials lists are on the Beads Direct blog.

Woven bangles created for Beads Direct using the new Bangle Weaver Tool from Beadalon

I have had so much fun playing with the new Bangle Weaver Tool designed by Kleshna for Beadalon. I simply love it and my mind is bursting with ideas. It can be used to create so many different styles of bangle, from structured wire weaves to Boho and ethnic styles using fabric strips. Why not try recycling old T shirts, bedding or carrier bags.

Beads Direct asked me to create a few designs for their blog – they took some lovely pics too. Do check the Beads Direct Blog for lots of great projects from the Design Team.

The instructions included are very easy to follow, and it can be used to weave so many different types of materials, for example:

· Beading cable (e.g. 7 Strand beading wire)or monofilament (e.g. Supplemax)

· Recycled sari silk yarns or ribbons

· Shamballa (e.g. waxed nylon cord), cotton (e.g. waxed cotton) or rattail cords (e.g. satin)

· Leather (e.g. round cord) or suede cords (e.g. flat cord)

The possibilities are simply endless.

I find that Kumihimo bobbins are invaluable for keeping cords or ribbons manageable, or Spool Tamers if you are weaving beading wires. Bead stoppers are also handy for temporarily holding beaded cables or ribbons in place. You will also need blunt ended needles with a large eye to replace the warp. The bodkin set recommended by Kleshna is very good. However, when warping ribbon or fabric strip weaves I found that an extra-long bodkin (e.g. elastic threader available from haberdashery stores) was much easier to use. Note: The warp pegs are quite sharp so I would not recommend the tool for young children, and do protect you table top from scratches by using with a mat.

Woven Bangle Designs

I have created a few designs for you using Recycled Sari Silk Ribbons and 0.6mm Supplemax Monofilament along with various beads from my stash. I hope that they inspire you to get started with your own designs. I followed the basic instructions included with the tool for setting up, weaving and warping. I just love this fabulous tool.

Happy beading, Anne x.

Materials used:

· Recycled Sari Silk Ribbons (ST240)

· 0.6mm Supplemax Monofilament (W418)

· Classic White Vintage Bead Mix (BG0362)

· Berry Smoothie Blush Pink Vintage Bead Mix (BG0371)

· Glam Green Vintage Bead Mix (BG0363)

· Lucite Flower Bead Mix (BO435)

· Peridot and Lemon Toho Seed Beads Size 11 (11TR27 and 11TR902)

· Turquoise Toho Seed Beads Size 8 (8TR55)

· Hot Pink 3mm Cross Grain Ribbon (TC1076)

· Silver Plated Crimp Beads #2 (F317)

· 0.25mm Supplemax Monofilament (TC94)

· Co-ordinating Nymo or KO beading threads (for sewing)

· Silver Plated Headpins (F0043)

Floral Trellis Bangle

I used 0.6mm Supplemax, the vintage pink bead mix and a few flowers to create this bangle. I love the way that the beads appear to be suspended on the transparent woven trellis.

Unwind and cut off approximately 4m from the spool and thread with 231 beads from the pink mix. Wind onto a Kumihimo bobbin. I used a Bead Stopper to clamp the monofilament while weaving (you could crimp them together at this stage).

Weave 7 rows with one plain and one beaded strand, moving up 3 beads to the front per ‘wrap’ with the beaded strand. The weave holds the beads in place.

Unwind approximately 1.5m off from the plain spool before cutting. Pass one of the strands down through the warp to the other side to give the 2 warping strands. Warp the bangle according to the included instructions and secure using crimp beads. I adjusted the tension by pulling in the warp threads to give a bangle width of approx. 1.5 inches as I worked around.

Next stitch on flowers using the thinner 0.25mm Supplemax. Tie on the thread, pass up through the flower, add on a small lemon seed bead, pass back down the flower and tie/knot back onto the trellis. Weave the thread through the trellis between the flowers.

Spring Garden Bangle

I used strips of the silk ribbon in yellows/creams and greens for the weave and 0.6mm Supplemax for the warp, then embellished with beads.

Join the silk ribbon strips by stitching them together (just a couple of small stitches to anchor) using beading thread. Prepare approximately 1.5 to 2m each of yellows/creams and greens. Twist the strips and wind onto Kumihimo bobbins for weaving. Twisting the strips gives added strength and structure to the weave. After weaving 7 rows secure the silk strips with a few stitches.

Use approximately 2m of the 0.6mm Supplemax to warp, adjusting the bangle width to approx. 1.5 inches by gently pulling on both the warps as you work around. I generally prefer to tighten and adjust the warp as I work on silk weaves, rather than after the warp pegs have been removed.

Use crimps to secure the ends. Once removed from the warp pegs neaten the cut ends of the silk by stitching them down, hiding them on the inside of the bangle.

I found the use of an extra long bodkin really useful for pulling the warp strands though the channels of the ribbon weave. Tip: Push the eye of the bodkin through the channel, thread with the monofilament, and then pull through. Unthread and repeat pulling the cables through from each side.

Then use 0.6mm Supplemax to add small green beads (from the Glam Green Vintage Mix) along the top and bottom edges. Simply weave the cable through, following the pattern of the silk weave, adding 11 groups of 3 beads on each edge (i.e. you will need 66 beads in total). Secure with crimps, hiding them by burying into the silk weave.

Further embellish the bangle by stitching on groups of green beads, along with purple and white flowers, using co-ordinating beading thread. Use peridot seed beads to attach the green beads and flowers, and to create little beaded leaves. The leaves are made by threading 9 beads, passing back down the eighth bead, adding 6 beads and finally passing back through the first bead. Ensure that groups of beads are anchored well by stitching into the silk. Stitch through the back of the bangle when moving between beaded sections.

Blue Lagoon Bangle

This bangle was woven in the same way as the Spring Garden Bangle. A random mix of blue and green silk ribbons were used but they were not twisted before weaving. I tightened up the warp tension after removing the warp pegs (as described in the instruction booklet). The resultant weave is softer and less structured than when using twisted strips. It is also more difficult to get an even tension. However, I was very pleased with the results, giving the design a more organic feel.

To embellish, first attach groups of 2 or 3 beads onto headpins. Anchor these onto the warp (buried in the silk weave) for stability, attaching them with wrapped loops. Further embellish by stitching on clusters of beads from the Glam Green Vintage mix, plus green and turquoise flowers, along with turquoise and peridot seed beads.

Tooty Fruity Bangle

In this design I added beads (from the Pink Vintage Mix) onto the warp to create a border along the edges of the bangle. I also included a cross grain ribbon in the weave to give added texture.

Prepare approximately 1.5 to 2m each of bright pink and dark purple silk strips, twist and wind them onto Kumihimo bobbins. The bangle is woven in the same way as the Spring Garden Bangle but weaving with one pink strand, and combining a pink cross grain ribbon along with the purple strand.

Warp using approximately 3m of 0.6mm Supplemax and add a bead onto each warp strand before passing them back down the channel. Note: when adding beads to the outer warp edges they need to be fairly large when using silk weave. Smaller beads just disappear down into the channels.

Finally embellish by stitching sets of 3 beads in rows around the weave. You will need a total of 66 beads (11 groups of 3 per row).

Indian Rose Bangle

I chose 6 different silk ribbon colours to weave this one. They were woven in the same way as the Spring Garden bangle but the colour combination was changed every 3 rows: green and purple for the first 3 rows, yellow and pink for the next 3 rows, cream and cerise for the top 3 rows. The bangle was warped using approximately 2m of the 0.6mm Supplemax.

Use the silk ribbons to create a flower and embellish using beads from the Pink Vintage Mix:

Create 5 small cerise petals from 1.5 inch squares. First fold the square in half, then fold the outer edges to the centre and down to create a small folded triangle with raw edges along the base. Use small running stitches along the base to gather the petal.

Create 5 large turquoise petals using 4 X 1.5 inch strips. First fold the strips in half and round off the corners on the raw edges. Use small running stitches along the raw edges and pull up to gather the petal.

Arrange the petals and stitch them onto the bangle. Add beads to cover the centre and raw edges.

Encrusted Treasure Bangle

This bangle was woven using knotted silk strands along with a strand of beaded 0.6mm Supplemax (Classic White Mix). I just love the textures on this one.

Prepare approximately 1.5 to 2m each of turquoise/teal and mixed red strips, stitching lengths together with a few stitches to hold, and then knot over the join. Next knot the silk strips at intervals of approximately 2 inches right along the length. Don’t pull too hard or the silk will tear. Loosely twist the teal and red strands together and wind onto a Kumihimo bobbin.

Keeping the 0.6mm Supplemax on the reel, thread a length of approximately 1m with a random mix of the white beads. Weave the bangle in a similar way as the Floral Trellis, pushing up 3-5 beads to the front per ‘wrap’ with the beaded strand. The weave holds the beads in place.

Warp using approximately 3m of 0.6mm Supplemax and secure with crimps.

I have been playing with the new bangle weaver tool designed by Kleshna

I have been playing with the new Bangle Weaver Tool and have had so much fun. I simply love it and my mind is bursting with ideas.

To create your design you need:

· Something strong/stiff for the warp (to hold shape)

· Something to weave

· Something to further embellish (optional)

The instructions included are very easy to follow. There are 3 positions for setting up the warp pegs, allowing 3 sizes of bangle to be created. The tool is so versatile and can be used to weave so many different types of materials:

· Beading cable (e.g. 7 Strand beading wire)or monofilament (e.g. Supplemax)

· Recycled sari silk yarns or ribbons

· Shamballa (e.g. waxed nylon cord), cotton (e.g. waxed cotton) or rattail cords (e.g. satin)

· Leather (e.g. round cord) or suede cords (e.g. flat cord)

Weaving is very quick and easy. Beads can be incorporated into the weave by adding them to your cable or cord length before weaving. I find that Kumihimo bobbins are invaluable for keeping cords or ribbons manageable, or Spool Tamers if you are using beading wires. Bead stoppers are also handy for temporarily holding beaded cables or ribbons in place.

Replacing the warp can be a bit fiddly and takes longer than you might think. You will need blunt ended needles with a large eye to pull the warp through. The bodkin set recommended by Kleshna is very good. However, when warping ribbon or fabric strip weaves I found that an extra-long bodkin (e.g. elastic threader available from haberdashery stores) was much easier to use.

Beads can also be added to the warp. They can be placed between sections of weave or on the outer edges to create pretty beaded borders. Finally you can further embellish your bangle with beads, charms, silk flowers etc. There are just so many possibilities.

The warp pegs are quite sharp so I would not recommend the tool for young children, and do protect you table top from scratches by using with a mat.

I just love this tool. It can be used to create so many different styles of bangle, from structured wire weaves to Boho and ethnic styles using textiles. Why not try recycling old T shirts, bedding or carrier bags. The possibilities are endless.

I am currently weaving with silk ribbons and embellishing with beads. I will be sharing some of my designs with you all very soon. I hope that you will love this tool as much as I do.

Happy beading, Anne x.

Soutache Owl Tutorial Created for Beads Direct

Don’t forget to check out my latest tutorial on the Beads Direct Blog.

 

http://www.beadsdirect.co.uk/blog/soutache-night-owl-by-anne-waller/

Crystal Plume Necklace and Earrings Set Designed for Beads Direct

 

The Challenge

I have really enjoyed my first Design Team Challenge for Beads Direct. I was provided with the beautiful quality bicones from Preciosa in grey-blue colourway. The remit was to design something to fully showcase the beads, combining them with additional materials of my choice (within a given budget).

They are so gorgeous and need very little embellishing. I chose to combine them with copper and rose gold which really makes the grey-blue colour sing out. They would also look equally good with silvers for a cooler more subtle effect.

I have come up with two versions of a sparkly drop necklace for you. A real show stopper party piece for special nights out and a more delicate version for everyday wear; along with earrings to match. Great for the festive season.

You can make all three pieces with the materials listed. I have also given details of materials for each piece individually to help you with your shopping list.

Note: If you use the lengths of 0.8mm wire that I have indicated in the step by step you will have sufficient from one 6m pack to create all three designs with approx. 0.5 to 1m extra to remake any looped components that don’t quite work out.

Happy Beading, Anne x.

Equipment Needed

• Whammer Hammer with steel block and leather pad (to make the tassels – see note)
• Flush cutters, round nosed pliers, snipe nosed pliers

Note: You will need a Whammer Hammer to create the copper tassels. It is possible to adjust the design by adding beaded or cord tassels, or omit the tassels and just add a metal spacer bead to the base of the drops. However, if you want to work with wire in your designs I can highly recommend this tool; it is well worth the investment.

Materials

• 14mm Preciosa Bicones Grey Blue 1 pack (of 6) BG0275
• 10mm Preciosa Bicones Grey Blue 1 pack (of 12) BG0273
• 8mm Preciosa Bicones Grey Blue 2 packs (of 12) BG0271
• Preciosa Twin Hole Seed Copper Lined Crystal 1 pack (of 10g) TWH68105
• Size 11 Miyuki Delica Beads Transparent Rainbow Silver Grey 1 Pack (of 5g) DB179
• 0.8mm Wire Copper 1 Pack (of 6m) W388
• Findings Kit Rose Gold ST221

Click here for a quick link to the shopping list from Beads Direct.

Step By Step Guide

Step 1 (out of 14)

Making the Copper Tassels:

• Cut 3 lengths of 0.8mm copper wire measuring 3, 4 and 5cm for each tassel.
• Leaving the top 1cm free, flatten the wire using the Whammer Hammer. Start lightly with a stroking motion and gradually increase the pressure towards the base. Try to keep the wire straight as you flatten. Stop and ease into shape as you go if needed.
• Make a ‘P’ curled loop on the top using round nosed pliers.
• Add the drops onto an eyepin to create a graduated tassel drop orientating the ‘P’ loops all to the back.

Step 2 (out of 14)

The Earrings:

Materials: 14mm, 10mm and 8mm bicones X 2 of each and approx. 80cm of 0.8mm copper wire. From the Findings Kit: 4mm spacer bead X 2, eyepins X 2, and earring hooks X 2.

• Make 2 sets of copper wire tassels as given in step 1. Align the drops so that they make a mirror image pair.
• Add a 4mm spacer and an 8mm bicone and top with a simple wrapped loop. Orientate the top loop at 90 degrees to the base loop.

Note: The eyepins are quite stiff and beginners may find them tricky to make wrapped loops. Being a harder wire they will maintain their shape well, so a standard loop would be ok here.

Step 3 (out of 14)

• Cut two 10 cm lengths of 0.8mm wire. Place one of the 10mm bicones half way along the wire and make a loop. Attach the loop to the tassel and make a wrap to hold.

Step 4 (out of 14)

• Place the 10mm bicone onto the tassel drop and make a wrapped loop at the top of the bead at right angles to the bottom loop. Wrap the wire around the bead top to create a coiled cap, leaving approx. 2cm of wire free for decoration.
• Place the pliers flush with the wire end and curl in the opposite direction to create a decorative curl. Press down so it sits flat onto the bead.
• Wrap and finish the bottom of the bead in the same way.

Step 5 (out of 14)

• Cut two 14cm lengths of 0.8mm wire. Use to wrap, decorate and attach the 14mm beads as given in steps 3 and 4.

Step 6 (out of 14)

• Finally attach the earring wires.

Note: These earrings are opulent shoulder dusters (approx. 11cm long). They can easily be adapted by using fewer beads, or by omitting the copper tassels, if you prefer.

Step 7 (out of 14)

The Single Plume Necklace:

• Materials: 14mm bicone X 1, 10mm bicone X1, 8mm bicones X9, Preciosa Twins approx. 5g, Miyuki Delicas approx. 2g, 0.8mm copper wire approx. 50cm. From the Findings Kit: 4mm spacer beads X9, headpins X 8, eyepin X 1, 2mm crimp beads X 4, clasp, jump rings X 2, calottes X 2, beading cable approx. 60cm.

• Make one tasselled drop in the same way as the earrings steps 1-5.
• Thread 8 headpins with a 4mm spacer and an 8mm bicone and make wrapped loops.

Step 8 (out of 14)

• Cut a length of bead cable, approx. 60cm, and thread with the Preciosa twins and Delicas, alternating one twin bead and two Delicas along the length until you have approx. 33 twins along the strand. Use a stopper bead or crimp to prevent the beads sliding off, but do not add permanent fixings yet.
• Now start adding the drops. Continue the same sequence with the seed beads, spacing the drops with 2 twins between each drop loop. Note: The loops of the drops will slide over and sit on the top of the small Delicas.
• Continue adding the seed beads up the other side, matching the left and right sides.
• Test the necklace length and add or remove a few seed beads from each side until happy with the length. Note: Allow approx. 4cm for the clasp fixings in your adjustments.
• Add a crimp bead and a 4mm spacer bead, pass the cable through a calotte. Add another crimp and pass the cable back down and through the bead and first crimp plus a couple of the twins. Adjust the cable and tighten the crimp beads to secure. Close the calotte to hide the crimp and trim the cable close. Repeat on both sides.
• Curl the calotte loops enclosing a jump ring. Open one of the jump rings and add the clasp to one side. Note: When turning the calotte loop curl it right back and in on itself to make it more secure.

In this version I have not utilised the second hole on the twin beads. I rather like the texture, sparkle and movement that they give.

Step 9 (out of 14)

The Multidrop Necklace:

• Materials: 14mm bicones X 3, 10mm bicones X 9, 8mm bicones X 13, Preciosa Twins approx. 5g, Miyuki Delicas approx. 2g, 0.8mm copper wire approx. 4m. From the Findings Kit: 6mm spacer bead X 24, 4mm spacer bead X 8, headpins X 4, eyepins X 7, 2mm crimp beads X 4, clasp X 1, beading cable approx. 1.2m.

• Make 7 sets of copper wire tassels as given in step 1.
• Add an 8mm bicone and make a wrapped loop. Orientate the top loop at 90 degrees to the base loop. Note: The eyepins are quite stiff and beginners may find them tricky to make wrapped loops. Being a harder wire they will maintain their shape well, so a standard loop would be ok here.
• Thread 4 headpins with a 4mm spacer and an 8mm bicone and make wrapped loops. Note: Wrapped loops are more secure in this instance as they will be sitting on the fine bead cable which is more likely to slip through any small gaps.

Step 10 (out of 14)

• Cut 2 X 8cm 0.8mm copper wire, attach and make decorative wraps with 2 X 8mm bicones as given in steps 3 and 4.
• Cut 5 X 10cm 0.8mm copper wire, attach and make decorative wraps with 5 X 10mm bicones in the same way.

Step 11 (out of 14)

• Cut 4 X 10cm 0.8mm copper wire, attach and make decorative wraps with 4 X 10mm bicones as given in steps 3 and 4.
• Cut 3 X 14cm 0.8mm copper wire, attach and make decorative wraps with 3 X 14mm bicones in the same way.

Step 12 (out of 14)

• Cut 20 X 5.5 cm 0.8mm copper wire. Use to make simple wrapped loops and join the 6mm spacer beads to the drops. Add X 4 to the centre drop, X 3 to the next pair of drops, then X 2 to the next pair and finally X 1 to the three outer pairs.

Step 13 (out of 14)

Note: As this is a ‘gem heavy’ piece jump rings are not really strong enough for securing the clasp as they are likely to pull open. I have created simple but strong clasp fixings using the 0.8mm copper wire. If you are a beginner you could add split rings instead but they can be a bit tight to fit onto the lobster clasp.

• Cut 2 X 14cm of 0.8mm copper wire. Make a simple wrapped loop at one end.
• Add a 4mm and 6mm spacer bead. Ease the wire back though the 6mm spacer. Take time, stroking the wire and gently bending into a loop as you go. Use pliers to help pull it back through the bead. Leave a little space between the 4 and 6mm beads and use this to coil wrap and finish the wire. Add the clasp to one side before passing back the wire. Lightly Whammer the loop to work harden (this step is not essential if you don’t have the hammer).

Step 14 (out of 14)

• Cut 2 lengths of bead cable, approx. 60cm, and thread one strand with the Preciosa twins and Delicas as given in step 8, adding approx. 26 twins on each side of the drops section.
• Test the necklace length and add or remove a few seed beads from each side until happy with the length. Note: Allow approx. 9cm for the clasp fixings in your adjustments.
• Thread the second strand of cable through the second hole in the twin beads, adding in 2 Delicas between the twins (i.e. to make a double strand). In the central section between the middle 5 drops add only 1 Delica. This will make the necklace curve nicely at the front. Take care not to go through the wire loops of the drops sitting on the first strand.
• Finally, pass both bead cables though a crimp, a 6mm spacer, another crimp and then a 4mm spacer. Attach the clasp fixings and loop the cables back through all the spacers and crimps, plus through a couple of the twins. Adjust, secure the crimps and trim close.

I hope that you like my first designs for Beads Direct.

Happy beading, Anne x.