Printing onto Fabric using Bubble Jet Set

I have been meaning to try this stuff out for ages and have finally got around to testing out Bubble Jet Set for printing directly onto fabric from an inkjet printer. I have an Epson printer with compatible archival type pigment inks but this works with inkjet dye based inks too (although I haven’t personally assessed those).

 

1. I used 100% cotton fabric prewashed to remove any starch or sizing etc. Soaked in the solution for 5 mins and then air dried (excess solution can be returned to the bottle).
2. I left it to air dry then ironed to remove any creasing. Then ironed onto the shiny side of freezer paper (available from grocers).
3. I had a lot of trouble initially getting my printer to accept the sheets! Freezer papers do vary in thickness and stiffness and mine was a bit limp and my printer just wasn’t having it. To get around this I slightly trimmed back my sheet and used a glue stick to apply the sheet to a piece of standard copy paper. Hey presto – my printer accepted it perfectly.
4. I printed some butterflies from a Copyright Free image set from Dover Publications – using standard paper print settings. They printed out perfectly.
5. After 30 mins I wash tested the images (hand hot wash with detergent – washing up liquid) and they washed perfectly with no loss of image. Yay!
6. I ironed on some interfacing and embellished some of these with free machine embroidery before cutting out and using for applique. Delighted with the results and it works out so much cheaper than the ready to print fabric sheets that are available (they are very good but far too expensive for me).

Tie dyed and block printed skirt and top

 

 

I had been meaning to dye and decorate these for ages – a white T shirt and very pale denim skirt (white to pale blue dip die effect).

I used one of the old multipurpose Dylon dies in the washing machine (they now have an alternative formulation for natural fabrics such as cotton). I really didn’t spend a lot of time. I decided where I wanted the motifs and made a small mark with chalk. I placed a chop stick tip behind the placement mark and made a sort of tent shape. Then I simply wrapped it with elastic bands and pulled out the stick. I found this a really quick and easy method. I then dyed in the washing machine with salt (according to packet directions). I love the way that the polyester stitching didn’t pick up the die – nice design detail.

Looking at the results the rings reminded my somewhat of floating jelly fish so I decided to block print and create a sort of ‘under the sea’ theme.

I over printed the design using iron fix fabric paints and printing blocks from Colouricious.

Upcycled skirt and top, dyed and block printed ready for summer

Good morning. I have been doing a little more fabric dyeing and block printing of my clothes ready for summer. This one started off as a plain white skirt. It was a bargain charity shop buy at just £2 – but white is simply not me.

The fabric is 100% cotton with a fine metallic thread running through it at intervals – perfect for dyeing. I dyed it Flamingo Pink (Dylon) using the washing machine. Then I block printed with fabric paint and wooden print blocks (Blockwallah and Colouricious). Ta Da – a lovely revamped skirt ready for summer.

 

I also picked up another £2 bargain which started off as a pale pink knitted top. I dyed it in the same batch and it turned out fabulous. It was mainly viscose but also had a synthetic fibre component. You can see in the close up that it came out with a lovely mottled effect as the synthetic fibre remained undyed.

Upcycled and dyed polyester blouse

Good morning. I am sharing an upcycled blouse which I dyed with old iron fix silk paints that were past their best. I got the blouse in a charity shop for just £2. I loved the style but I really am not a ‘cream blouse girl’. The blouse was 100% polyester which is generally difficult to colour – you really need to use specialist dyes for polyester or iron transfer paints (which you paint onto paper then iron to transfer the colour). However, I have found that iron fix fabric paints will stain polyester permanently. They are best watered down – otherwise most can leave a stiff finish on the fabric, especially sheer fabrics such as this blouse.

Sorting through my stash I found some very old silk paints (fluid formula) which were really past their best and they had some precipitation. They were no longer suitable for fine silk painting work. However, they are perfect for this sort of job. I find it best to pick up colour with a very damp sponge and simply dab it over the fabric allowing it to blend. Thicker iron fix paints, and even standard acrylic paints, also work well provided they are diluted out. Results are not predictable but that is the joy of this sort of project.

When finished I allowed the blouse to dry overnight. I also put it through a tumble dryer cycled (hot iron not suitable for this fabric). I then machine washed (virtually no colour came out in the wash).

Delighted with my new blouse.

Kingfisher vest decorated using stamps from Chocolate Baroque

Still playing with fabric stamping. My house mate is away so I have taken over the kitchen and spread out all my fabrics, dyes and paints. Heaven.

I created this one using stamps from Chocolate Baroque. I decorated a simple vest that I really wasn’t wearing very much. Really happy with the results and my vest has a new lease of life.

Materials:

Kingfisher Song, Sticks & Stones, and Wild Meadow stamp sets

Vallejo Textile Paints from Colouricious (Bengali Rose, Black and Blue)

Starlight Fabric Paint from Imagination Crafts (Mint)

Jacquard Textile Colour (Super Opaque White)

CutNDry Foam

Briefly how it was done:

I stamped the images along the hem with black paint – using an acrylic block and foam mount on my stamps – in the same way as stamping on card. Tip: When stamping with acrylic or textile paints I like to load the paint onto a piece of cut & dry foam, working it in with a palette knife. I find that this method gives the best stamp coverage without clogging, and the cleanest image when stamped.

I then coloured the image with a fine brush. Some of the colours were mixed together to get the shades that I wanted. I hand painted over the flower tops and stamped more ferns in colour. I also stamped fern tips along the top ribbon edge.

I also used leftover paint on my sponges to stamp a spare piece of fabric that I had pre-coloured with leftover dyes from a previous project. I don’t like to waste anything.

 

Note about heat setting: I like to leave my design overnight to fully dry before heat setting with an iron on the reverse. I wait for at least 3 days before the first wash.

Upcycled top dyed and block printed

 

Good afternoon. I have had a fabulous morning crafting in my pyjamas – luxury – tee hee.

 

This top started white with blue & red embroidery. Unfortunately I splashed the front with curry while cooking and I just couldn’t get it out. No problem – I have disguised it with dyeing and block printing. Now you would never know.

 

I dyed a white skirt at the same time – so off to think about how I will decorate it further.

 

Materials:

Dylon machine dye with 500g salt (Bahama Blue)

Vallejo Textile paints (Blue & Red)

Foam stamping mat and sponges to apply paint to block (Colouricious)

Border and mandala block (Blockwallah)

Small decorative block (Colouricious?)

Tiered Maxi Skirt made from a recycled bed sheet

 

 

Good afternoon. I am sharing a skirt that I made from an old double bed white sheet. I dyed the background and made up this simple tiered skirt. I simply measured my hips and cut the width of the top tier so that I could pull it on easily with an elasticated top band. I then added tiers of increasing width (approx. 1.5 to 2X the width of the previous tier). I used a remnant of embroidered fabric for the bottom frill.

Before adding the elastic to the waist I machine embroidered rows of decorative stitching and flourishes. I then block printed with various designs and heat set to make permanent. Summer here we come.

Materials:

White cotton double bed sheet, cotton ribbon for trim (dyed with sheet) and remnant of turquoise embroidered chiffon

Dylon multipurpose dye. This is now discontinued but they have a new formulation that is equivalent for use on natural fabrics (dyed in washing machine).

Madiera Rayon embroidery thread – variegated golds and browns

Wooden printing blocks:

Owl (Blockwallah), small leaves, floral sprig, daisy flower, leafy spiral (Colouricious), paisley and floral Border (unknown brand)

High density foam mat – to lay underneath as block print (Colouricious)

Fabric paints – heat set with iron (to make permanent):

White Gold Starlights Fabric Paint (Imagination Crafts), Chestnut Brown Multipurpose Satin Paint (Martha Stewart), Turquoise blue mixed to match fabric – Opaque White (Jacquard), Metallic Turquoise and Blue (Vallejo from Colouricious)

Art Bag Created for Chocolate Baroque TV Show

I created this sample for the recent TV shows from Chocolate Baroque on The Craft Channel. Lesley Wharton was fantastic and gave some wonderful demos using the new background stamps – Floral Weave, Open Weave, Studded Lattice and Baroque Orchids. They are so versatile for so many projects and styles.

I have used recycled curtains to create myself a large Art Carry bag. I used all four of the lovely new background stamps to decorate my fabrics.

Now I have a lovely new bag to carry my unframed paintings to exhibition. You could easily adapt the design idea to make a shopping or handbag, or to decorate a ready-made bag.

Materials:

• Floral Weave, Open Weave, Studded Lattice and Baroque Orchids stamps
• Recycled blue cotton curtains with cream cotton lining
• Iron on paper backed fabric adhesive (Bondaweb)
• Sewing and machine embroidery threads
• Black iron fix textile paint
• Cut-N-Dry foam and palette knife
• Tim Holtz Tattered Florals and Leaf dies (BigZ)

How it was made:

1. I first made a simple strong bag to fit my board mounted artwork pieces. Simply 2 rectangles sewn together with handles to fit over my shoulder. This is a very large bag so it is easy to decorate and sew on the applique pieces while made up. For smaller bags and shoppers it would be easier to decorate the panels before completing the construction.
2. Ironed Bondaweb onto the back of the cream lining. Leaving the paper backing in place cut out flowers and leaves with the dies. Printed the text to create a template for cutting the lettering.
3. Stamped all the cut shapes with textile paint using a random mix of all four stamps (see tip). Left overnight to dry and cure.
4. Stamped the front of the bag with the Floral Weave stamp. Left overnight to dry then fixed the paints with an iron (this makes the paint permanent and washable).
5. Peeled the backing paper off all the cut out shapes and ironed onto the bag. This secures the shapes and heat fixes paints.
6. Finally I stitched around all the shapes using a straight stitch and free machine embroidery. This is where you drop the fabric feed dogs and freely move the fabric beneath the needle (like drawing with a sewing machine and thread).

Tip for stamping with paints: I used to use a standard sponge for applying acrylics or textile paint to my stamp. I would apply paint to a palette then pick up with a sponge, dabbing to remove excess paint before applying to my stamp. After a short while the paint would start to dry on the palette. The detail of the stamping was also gradually lost as clumps of paint built up in the stamp crevices after repeat application of paint. When this occurs you need to stop and clean up the stamp before continuing.

I now use Cut-N-Dry foam and the results are so much better. I apply plenty of paint directly to the pad and work it well into the foam with a palette knife. The foam can now be used to apply paint to the stamp repeatedly without reloading. Placing the foam paint side down on a craft mat while not using also keeps the paint moist for ages. I find this method gives much sharper printing, uses a lot less paint and is easier to clean up when finished.

Clean up well and do not leave paint to dry onto your stamp. I use a little soapy water and a soft tooth brush if needed.